2024 Italy

This Italy cycling trip didn’t go quite as planned. A train strike forced me to cycle north from Rome, and early on I was dealing with traffic, broken roads, drizzle, a sore throat and very little energy. After a few short recovery days around Assisi and Gubbio, I gradually felt better and started enjoying the riding again.

The best part of the trip was discovering just how beautiful the Umbrian and Lazio countryside is. Quiet country roads, strade bianche, gravel tracks, medieval villages, lakes and endless spectacular views made even the unplanned detours worthwhile. Some climbs were brutal—especially while recovering—but the reward was often an empty ridge road and incredible scenery. Gubbio, Assisi and the small villages along the way were highlights.

I covered roughly 660 km of new roads, with several long days despite feeling underpowered. Food and accommodation became part of the adventure: kefir and sushi one night, pasta from a kind B&B host another, and eventually excellent pizza and pasta in Manziana. The final day was a short ride toward the sea and airport, ending dramatically when I hit an unexpected barrier and went over the handlebars—but fortunately my helmet did its job. Overall, Italy once again proved that almost any road can turn into a beautiful cycling experience.

Fiumicino - Nepi - Civita Castellana - Terni - Spoleto - Foligno - Spello - Assisi - Valfabbrica - Gubbio - Umbertide - Passignano sul Trasimeno - Montorio - Tuscania - Vetralla - Manziana